Robert Parker
Tasted: 28/09/2017
Drink: 2021 - 2036


As normal, I was able to taste the 2014 Hermitage in its individual components, with the Bessards and l'Hermite (which are the backbone of the cuvee) both showing full-bodied richness, plenty of mid-palate depth and no shortage of tannic grip. The Méal is always the most jammy and forward, and is easily the most identifiable given its sexy, supple texture, although it never has the definition or cut of the Bessards. The Peleat and Beaume barrels are normally smaller components in the finial blend, with the Beaume always showing the most spice-laced and perfumed of the two. The 2014 shows the house elegance and purity, yet has solid ripeness and texture. All of the samples had solid tannic grip, but the overall impression was much more forward and approachable than the 2013, and I suspect it will be relatively accessible with short term cellaring. The reference point for classic Hermitage and Saint Joseph, Gérard and Jean-Louis Chave have just completed construction on a new cellar, which is located just across the street from their old cellar in Mauves. They've connected the two via a tunnel under the road, and the new cellar is quickly on its way to looking just like the old cellar -- with the same type of mold, smell and feel. Don't underestimate this, as cellar conditions contribute plenty to the final wine (and style of the estate), and I always have a touch of trepidation when a well-known estate moves into a new cellar. I have no such concerns here. Looking at recent vintages, Jean-Louis calls 2014 a "friendly vintage" and goes on to comment that the year started beautifully, but everything changed in July with cooler, wetter and more volatile weather. However, September was beautiful. I was able to go through all of the different Hermitage parcels and they showed surprising density and tannic grip in what's generally an easy going, mid-weight and charming vintage. Still, it's certainly a more approachable, fleshy wine than the masculine, granite-laced 2013. Still not yet bottled (and there's no set date for it to be bottled either), the 2013 Hermitage should surpass the 2014, although it's in a more, as Jean-Louis would say, 'granite-style' and will require cellaring to show at its best. As I've written now for a couple years, this estate continues to invest heavily in Saint Joseph and are developing new vineyards as well as replanting old ones. Similar to his Hermitage release, I was able to taste the different vineyards that go into his Saint Joseph, and while he continues to release a single cuvee, I've no doubt there will be multi-single vineyards in the not too distant future.

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